The ancient city of Rethymnon

Perched on the northern coast of Crete, halfway between Chania and Heraklion, lies the enchanting city of Rethymnon. Often overlooked in favor of Crete’s larger urban centers, Rethymnon blends the charm of a medieval town with vibrant modern life, offering visitors a unique mix of Venetian architecture, Ottoman influences, beautiful beaches, and a lively cultural scene. Whether you’re wandering its labyrinthine old town, basking in the sun along its coastline, or enjoying traditional Cretan cuisine at a local taverna, Rethymnon promises an unforgettable experience.

Rethymnon’s story begins in Minoan times, though it remained a relatively minor settlement during that period. Its significance grew during the Venetian rule (1204-1669), when it developed into a thriving commercial port and cultural hub. The Venetians invested heavily in fortifying and beautifying the city, leaving behind a lasting architectural legacy.

Following the fall of Crete to the Ottomans in the 17th century, Rethymnon absorbed influences from the East, visible in its mosques, minarets, and bathhouses. This confluence of Venetian elegance and Ottoman mystique gives the city its distinct character today.

Throughout the centuries, Rethymnon endured pirate raids, sieges, and revolutions, yet its cultural spirit remained unbroken. Today, it stands as one of Crete’s best-preserved old towns, a living museum of its complex past.

Exploring Rethymnon’s Old Town: A Walk Through Time

The Old Town of Rethymnon is undoubtedly the city’s heart and soul. Narrow, winding alleyways lead visitors past colorful facades, arched doorways, hidden courtyards, and blooming bougainvillaea. Every corner tells a story, whether through intricate stonework, carved Venetian coats of arms, or remnants of Ottoman balconies.

Highlights of Rethymnon

1. Fortezza Castle

Dominating the cityscape, the Fortezza is a massive 16th-century Venetian fortress, built to protect against pirate invasions and Ottoman sieges. Wandering its ramparts offers breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea and the city below. Inside, visitors can explore the remains of the Sultan Ibrahim Mosque, the old barracks, and underground storage rooms.

2. Rimondi Fountain

Located in Platanos Square, the Rimondi Fountain (1626) is a charming Venetian relic with ornate Corinthian columns and lion-headed spouts. It was once the city’s main water source and remains a favorite spot for photos and a cool drink on hot afternoons.

3. Neratze Mosque & Minaret

Originally a Venetian church, it was converted into a mosque during Ottoman rule. Today, it functions as a municipal music conservatory, blending architectural styles seamlessly. Its slender minaret still towers over the old town skyline.

4. Venetian Loggia

This elegant 16th-century building served as a gathering place for Venetian nobles. Recently restored, it now houses exhibitions and artisan shops, preserving its historical grandeur.

5. Guora Gate (Great Gate)

One of the few remaining fragments of the original city walls, Guora Gate once marked the main entrance to Rethymnon. It stands as a symbol of the city’s resilience through centuries of change.

The Vibrant Harbour and Seafront Promenade

No visit to Rethymnon is complete without a stroll along the Old Venetian Harbour. With its picturesque fishing boats, colorful waterfront cafes, and the iconic Egyptian lighthouse, the harbour exudes timeless charm. It’s the perfect place to sip a coffee, enjoy freshly caught seafood, and watch the world go by.

The adjacent seafront promenade stretches for kilometers, lined with lively tavernas, boutique shops, and bars. In the evening, the area transforms as locals and tourists gather to dine al fresco, sample Cretan wines, and listen to live music against the backdrop of the shimmering sea.

Taste of Crete in Rethymnon

Rethymnon is a paradise for food lovers, showcasing the very best of Cretan cuisine, renowned for its fresh ingredients and healthful simplicity.

Don’t miss:

  • Dakos: Barley rusk topped with chopped tomatoes, feta or mizithra cheese, olives, and herbs.
  • Kalitsounia: Small, sweet or savory cheese pies, often flavored with honey or cinnamon.
  • Lamb with stamnagathi: A local specialty featuring wild greens and tender lamb.
  • Fresh seafood: Octopus, grilled fish, and calamari are staples along the waterfront.
  • Raki (Tsikoudia): The traditional Cretan spirit, typically offered after meals.

For an authentic experience, dine at a family-run taverna in the old town or venture into the nearby villages to savor true Cretan hospitality.

Excursions to Rethymnon

Many companies offer excursions to Rethymnon. Usually these are half day excurions or full day excurions combined with another highlight to visit. Thursday is the best day to visit Rethymno if you would like to see the traditional market. It will be much bussier in the old town, but it might be worth it to see some of the best local products at great prices.

Exploring Crete by car is one of the best ways to experience the island’s diverse landscapes, and visiting Rethymnon from Hersonissos makes for a perfect day trip filled with history, charm, and scenic beauty.

Distance & Driving Time

The distance between Hersonissos and Rethymnon is approximately 110 kilometers (about 68 miles). The drive typically takes 1 hour and 30 minutes, depending on traffic and stops along the way.

The Route

The most straightforward route is via the Northern Highway (E75/VOAK), which runs along Crete’s northern coast:

  1. Start by heading west on the highway from Hersonissos, following signs for Heraklion.
  2. Continue past Heraklion, staying on the E75 towards Rethymnon.
  3. The road is well-maintained, with clear signage in both Greek and English.
  4. As you approach Rethymnon, you’ll exit the highway and follow signs to the city center or the Old Town.

The drive itself is pleasant and scenic, with views of the sea on one side and Cretan mountains on the other. There are also several places along the way where you can stop for coffee, local snacks, or photos.

Parking in Rethymnon

Rethymnon offers multiple public parking lots and street parking areas close to the Old Town and harbor. Some are paid, while others offer free parking further from the center. It’s recommended to arrive early, especially in high season, as spots near the Old Town can fill up quickly.

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