Spinalonga | Leprosy island of Crete
Nestled in the tranquil waters of the Gulf of Elounda in northeastern Crete lies the small yet captivating island of Spinalonga. Though only about 8 hectares in size, this rocky islet holds an immense historical, cultural, and emotional weight. Over the centuries, Spinalonga has transformed from a natural fortification to a Venetian stronghold, and later, infamously, into one of Europe’s last leper colonies. Today, it stands as a poignant reminder of resilience, human suffering, and the ever-changing tides of history.
Spinalonga sits just off the coast of Crete, opposite the village of Plaka and near the town of Elounda. Its strategic position in the Gulf of Mirabello made it a crucial defensive point, controlling access to the sheltered bay. But beyond its military significance, Spinalonga’s most striking legacy is that of isolation and survival, which has inspired books, documentaries, and countless visitors to explore its storied past.
The Venetian Era: Defence Against the Pirates
Spinalonga’s history can be traced back to the Minoan era when the island was part of the mainland before becoming separated due to geological changes. However, it wasn’t until the Venetian occupation of Crete in the 16th century that Spinalonga’s significance soared.
In 1579, the Venetians constructed a formidable fortress on the island to protect the port of ancient Olous (modern Elounda) and to safeguard against Ottoman incursions and rampant piracy in the Mediterranean. The island’s natural position, combined with thick stone walls, bastions, and cannons, made it an impenetrable maritime sentinel. Remarkably, even after Crete fell to the Ottomans in the 17th century, the Venetians retained control of Spinalonga until 1715, when it eventually succumbed to Ottoman forces.
Visitors today can still walk along the impressive Venetian walls, enjoying panoramic views over the sparkling turquoise sea while imagining the tense centuries of naval warfare and sieges that took place.
The Ottoman Period: A Bustling Island Community
Following the Venetian era, Spinalonga became home to a small but thriving Ottoman community. Turkish families settled on the island, and houses, mosques, and shops began to populate the narrow lanes. The blend of Venetian architecture with Ottoman additions gives the island its unique aesthetic—a fascinating mosaic of East and West.
However, life under Ottoman rule was not without its hardships. Periods of rebellion, particularly during the Cretan Revolt against Ottoman dominance, caused instability and intermittent violence. By the late 19th century, as Crete fought for independence and union with Greece, the Turkish population began to leave Spinalonga, eventually leaving the island nearly deserted.
The Leper Colony: Isolation and Human Struggle
Perhaps the most defining chapter in Spinalonga’s history began in 1903, when it was converted into a leper colony—one of the last in Europe. At a time when leprosy (Hansen’s disease) was greatly feared and misunderstood, individuals diagnosed with the disease were forcibly removed from society and sent to live in isolation on Spinalonga.
For more than 50 years, the island became home to hundreds of men, women, and children suffering from leprosy. Initially, conditions were harsh: patients arrived destitute, shunned by their communities, and faced with inadequate medical care and living arrangements. Over time, however, the inhabitants established their own self-sufficient community. They built homes, ran shops, opened schools, and formed a municipal council. Despite the stigma and physical toll of the disease, life continued with marriages, births, religious ceremonies, and even entertainment.
In 1957, after effective treatments for leprosy were developed, the colony was finally closed, and the remaining residents were reintegrated into society. Walking through the deserted streets today, visitors often remark on the profound silence—a haunting testament to the suffering, courage, and resilience of Spinalonga’s last inhabitants.
Excursions to Knossos
The ideal times to visit Spinalonga are spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October) when the weather is mild, and the crowds are thinner. Mornings or late afternoons offer the most pleasant conditions and beautiful lighting for photography.
How to Get There:
Reaching Spinalonga is both easy and enjoyable. The most common way is by boat from Elounda, Plaka, or Agios Nikolaos:
- Plaka: The shortest trip (5-10 minutes), with frequent small boats running every 30 minutes.
- Elounda: A slightly longer scenic route (around 20-25 minutes).
- Agios Nikolaos: Offers longer excursions, often combined with swimming and lunch stops.
Boats operate regularly during the tourist season (April to October), with return tickets costing around €10-15, depending on the departure point.
Entrance Fee:
As of 2024, the entrance fee to Spinalonga is €8 per person (€4 reduced). Guides are available, or visitors can explore independently with informational plaques provided at key points.
Best Time to Visit:
The ideal times to visit Spinalonga are spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October) when the weather is mild, and the crowds are thinner. Mornings or late afternoons offer the most pleasant conditions and beautiful lighting for photography.
What to See:
Key highlights on Spinalonga include:
- The Venetian Fortress Walls: Offering stunning panoramic views over Mirabello Bay.
- The Ottoman-era buildings: Including old residences and the mosque.
- The Leper Colony quarters: Houses, hospital remains, and the disinfection tunnels at the entrance.
- The Church of Saint Panteleimon: The patron saint of the sick.
- Abandoned shops, school, and communal areas: Giving visitors a glimpse into the daily life of the colony residents.
Don’t forget to bring sun protection, comfortable walking shoes, and water, as there are no facilities on the island.
